Mpira!

I did not like soccer at all when I played between the ages of 5 and 9. I did not like getting changed in the back of my parents’ van while shoving a cheese sandwich in my mouth listening to the NFL hosts on the radio rushing to a Sunday game right after church. I also generally was not very good at it (maybe because I am actually left-footed) and so I quit and moved on to other sports.

But now, my relationship with soccer has done a complete 180 because over the past 3 years some of my absolute best and most fulfilling memories have come from soccer. Many of them are of course from my time in Comoros.

Watching the US Women’s National Team win the World Cup with all of my village cheering for them and waving around home made American flags.

Starting a running/soccer club with my female students who never usually got to play and seeing how excited and serious they got, and just how naturally talented they were. I had to practically threaten them off the field when play time was over because they were always having such a blast.

Playing with my male students once a week, feeling their kindness as they did not make fun of me when I played horribly, but rather encouraged me, especially during the moment that I realized that I might actually be left footed.

Going down to the field on Eid for the annual village soccer match and watching as everyone crowded around cheering for the final penalty kicks and feeling like so much a part of the community.

And now, after a very difficult and challenging year back in the US, I have started my first full time job at an organization called South Bronx United, which uses soccer as a tool for positive youth development. And so again I find myself surrounded by students and soccer.

Here, I have found so much joy in learning the students’ names and cheering them on while they play in their matches. I like learning what positions they play, why they bought the cleats they did, I like seeing how genuinely talented they are, I like hearing them communicate with their teammates on the field, and most of all I love being reminded of how similar these students here are to my students in Comoros.

Leaving Comoros was a major loss that caused a great amount of grief, but it has become apparent to me in a multitude of ways, and now especially in this way with this job, that my experiences there have had a very tangible impact on the person I have become and in the trajectory of my life.

I am so thankful that I am now soccer’s biggest fan (and I will keep wearing my Comorian National Team shorts to the soccer field at South Bronx United).

Mama mwema

This title can be translated into a variety of things because the word “mwema” has many meanings. It can mean nice, kind, friendly, generous, caring, etc. And that is exactly what Mama Anrafa, my Comorian mama is.

When I got home in March I wrote what I call a memoir, but is really just a chronological telling of events from my time in Comoros as they spilled out of my head and onto the paper. So it’s not very well written, and it’s mostly just so I don’t forget a single detail about my time, but it was also incredibly therapeutic and revealed certain themes from the 2 years that I spent in Comoros that I hadn’t realized to their fullest extent before. One of those themes is how steady and constant my host mother’s love and support for me has been since the first day I ever became friends with her.

Mama Anrafa is an outgoing and warm person; she can talk to anyone and everyone likes her, and you’d never know if she didn’t like you (but trust me there’s people she doesn’t like). I first became friends with her, back in the fall of 2018, because I was walking past the little shop she used to run and she invited me to sit with her and some other women. She asked me thoughtful questions and patiently listened to my broken Shingazidja. From that day forward she always invited me over for donuts or to meet her sister in law or one of her children or to see the view from her roof. Eventually her sister in law became my amazing aunt, her children my siblings, and her roof mine to hang out on as well.

She’s also incredibly competent; always thinking one step ahead whether its how to make a little extra cash by selling dresses or ice cold juice or planning for an upcoming event. This was very ideal for me because she was half the brains behind so many of the projects and events I held in my village. From the English Competition I planned which she helped me collect money for, pick out an outfit for, and even cooked a huge meal for the winners for, to the barbecue I held with my running club girls that she fully commandeered and organized, to the days right before we officially flew out of Comoros where she coordinated buying a few souvenirs for my American family members that I wouldn’t have time to get and calling people for me and making sure all my friends were waiting at out house when I came for my last hour in Ntsorale to get my things. Mama Anrafa considers every detail always.

She also is such an amazing mother because she gets so excited about my life. She was always overjoyed when Karolina or Ryanne or another Peace Corps volunteer would visit and she always told me to check in on them for her. When my American family came to visit she  truly pulled out all the stops, planning the most incredible and put together welcome ceremony that I could have ever imagined. It clearly meant so much to her to know my American parents and to assure them that she loved and cared for their daughter well.

Mama Anrafa is also someone I could vent to and who comforted me, who would assure me that I’d be ok and that God is always looking out. This happened during many of the more stressful moments of my service, but is especially true during my evacuation. If it weren’t for Mama Anrafa’s steadiness and optimism and strength literally holding me up in every phone call and in person interaction in those last few days I would have fallen completely apart.

And now that I am back in the US we talk every single day, even if it’s just a quick check-in to make sure everyone is healthy. I tell her everything; when I am sad or when I am frustrated about something.  She knows I moved to Brooklyn and am working on settling in here while also still missing Comoros so much. She makes me laugh on our phone calls and she lets me interact with my baby brother so much.

Mama Anrafa is one of the best people I have ever met and she doesn’t get enough credit. I cannot wait to meet again, and I am so lucky to have more than one amazing mother looking out for me.

Mafikira Nyumeni

This title means “new thoughts”, which are what I have been having since my move to Brooklyn. Many people have told me that it will probably feel wild to move to a borough of New York City after having lived in a rural village on a tiny African island for 2 years and I always agreed with them. But as it turns out, instead of feeling cultural whiplash or overwhelmed by all of the differences, I’m feeling like the differences between these places actually overlap to create similarities. Let me explain.

In both my village, Ntsorale, and my new neighborhood here in Brooklyn, Williamsburg, I have felt welcome and less like an outsider than I initially expected I would. I obviously stuck out like a sore thumb in Comoros; I was white, tall, didn’t speak the language, had a tattoo, the list goes on. But the people in my village went to great lengths to invite me into their lives in a way that quickly allowed me to feel like one of them. As one can imagine, I haven’t had such an overtly warm welcome into Brooklyn, but nonetheless, I already feel accepted here. Maybe it’s because I have a tattoo and there are plenty of white people to be found and everyone speaks English, but I also think it’s because of something really special and unique to the culture of New York City: no one cares at all what anyone else is doing. Not in a cold “I don’t care about your wellbeing” sort of way but in a “you do you it’s none of my business but yes I’ll show you how to use your Citi bike for the first time if you need or here’s a recommendation for a cool running store if you ask” type of way. I love this because for 2 years every single thing I did was noticed by Comorians. Not always in a judgmental way, although sometimes it was, and most often in a curious way, but everything I did was on display, which is part and parcel of being a foreigner and a guest in a different culture. Though I am still brand new to this city, because of its diversity and its respect for individuality, I feel a freedom now to live my life exactly how I’d like to.

The next months will be me figuring out exactly what that means to me because I know my experiences in Comoros will always be apart of me and I have every intention of weaving them into my new life here.

 

Mayesha hatru tsi nyangu

This translates to “our life is not easy” a sentiment that is relevant to many trying to survive and live and thrive on this earth.

There are many times while I was in Comoros when I felt proud to be an American. I was proud of the fact that us Peace Corps Volunteers were learning the first language of the people, something the French rarely do there. I was proud of how open to diversity the United States is as compared to my homogenous village that would start vehemently gossiping if a girl my age wore pants to walk somewhere. Even more than proud, I often felt thankful and privileged to be an American. Our passports allow us to go nearly anywhere we want in the world with very little hassle, meanwhile Comorians are forced to engage in illegal and dangerous tactics to pursue “better” lives in Mayotte and France. The educational resources, the sheer quality of my education at every single school I’ve attended in my life, is so noticeable when compared to my students’, friends’, and siblings’ experiences, where they’d have to study a history lesson in complex French that they hadn’t fully been taught by the haze of a small dinky flashlight because the power had yet again gone out. Our healthcare system and the quality of our doctors was another thing I felt thankful for, because in Comoros the most common solution for any illness is to stick in an IV drip, and if you have to stay overnight, you better make sure a family member can too, because that’s the only way you’ll get food or help going to the bathroom.

Reading that paragraph you may be able to understand how my view of the United States became idealized. I started thinking like Comorians; that the United States was an all powerful utopia that had the answers to everything. I didn’t forget about the problems we face in America, but I became really focused on the problems I saw in Comoros, like the sexism that women and girls face, like the lack of quality educational resources, like the absolute dearth of available well-paying (or even mediocre paying for that matter) jobs after someone managed to get their university degree. And so I thought of the United States as the land of plenty, as the land of opportunity, just in the same way as many Comorians did.

Reverse culture shock is a real thing that many expats feel. You get used to the culture and ways of life of the place you’ve been living so that things from your native culture feel foreign or off when you get home. My rosy image of a utopian United States was immediately shattered by the incompetency, opposing views, and lack of  an immediate solution regarding the covid-19 pandemic. I also started to struggle a lot in regards to American excessiveness; feeling guilty that even in pandemic America many of us have so much compared to my Comorian family. We have electricity and laptops and cell phones and as much food in the fridge as our hearts’ desire. I couldn’t understand why my Comorian family had gotten the short end of the stick and I’d been given the clear winning pile. I still haven’t resolved that question, but I do know that it informs the way I view the things I have been given, what I choose to buy, and how much I complain about life’s minor inconveniences. These were two large themes of reverse culture shock that I’ve been experiencing and now a few more have become apparent.

I had trouble wrapping my head around the recent events our country is experiencing, which led me to feel guilty, because racism in this country and the black lives matter movement are topics I started learning about in 2015, when I took my first Africana Studies course at Pitt, and that I have been relatively outspoken about in my personal life, and to an extent my public life. Why did I suddenly feel unable to engage with what was going on with the same passion and empathy that I usually had when it came to these matters? After much self reflection I realized that it’s due to a lot of reasons, but perhaps most significantly because I have been back in the US for 2.5 months and I haven’t found my footing yet. My worldview evolved and grew while I was in Comoros, but I hadn’t been faced with the challenge of inserting that updated worldview into the American context yet, until now.

I obviously do not have an outside perspective in the way that a foreigner would, but I do have the perspective of someone who hasn’t been living in the US recently. In Comoros I thought about how incredible it is that my country is so diverse, my country is so educated, my country is so progressive, and yet here I am surrounded by a country of people so divided it’s nearly impossible to summarize to an outsider, like my Comorian family who have been asking, all the intertwined layers that led us to this point. In Comoros 99% of people are Muslim and they all share the same ethnicity. While there are political debates, it’s mostly about getting the current dictator out of power, but when it comes down to it, most people held the same opinions and ideas about how they should all live their lives. I forgot about the extremity of opinion that exists in the United States, I forgot that there are often a thousand or more different takes on any one topic.

Honestly, I am glad I live in a country where it is normal for people to speak their minds and share their opinions, and that having a difference in beliefs is incredibly commonplace. But I am worried we have gotten too caught up in the minutia of these beliefs that we are missing the big picture. We have created a habit of disagreeing with each other to the point that we’ve forgotten what the end goal should be.

There are some beliefs that are grounded in fact, and to believe otherwise indicates a belief in something that is wrong. Racism is a fact in our country. Police violence against people of color is a fact in our country. Generational trauma and the systematic oppression that has yet to be dismantled since the time of enslavement is a fact in our country. We, and I am speaking as a white person specifically to white people for the remainder of this, need to educate ourselves on those facts in the most academic and well-rounded way possible, and we need to engage with those who do not see those things as facts yet. We shouldn’t be telling people who disagree with us to unfollow us because those are the exact people we should be trying to have a conversation with.  We should not be making blanket statements that belittle people who disagree with us because that means we have shut the door for any further hope of advocacy or conversation. I know we are angry; I am angry, sad, and appalled that there are still people who do not believe these facts of racism in our country. But I am white, I have benefited from these systems my entire life, I am part of the oppressing group. I cannot think of myself as better than other white people because I am educated on these topics; because if I do, that gets us nowhere. There is a way to be angry and to advocate for the truth without discrediting the potential for others to find their humanity. There are some truly awful racist people out there who will probably never change and frankly don’t deserve anyone’s time of day, but thankfully the extreme does not make up the majority. I believe if we put in the work to engage with people who as of yet do not understand the gravity of racism in this country we have a chance at making real change. Our end goal should not be to further divide ourselves, but to eventually unite ourselves.

This takes time. When I first got to Comoros I would never have dreamed of making comments about the sexism I observed, and it’s good that I didn’t, because imagine a stranger white girl marching in with all her American privilege telling the teachers at her school that it’s rude they didn’t shake her hand or telling her host father that it’s wrong he never helps out in the kitchen. Instead I formed relationships with these people and truly got to know them in the same way that they truly got to know me. Only then was I able to make effective statements about my beliefs in regards to women’s rights, and it led to many positive conversations with teachers at my school, men in my village, and my female students.

There are many aspects of this example that aren’t identically relatable to the current issue at hand in the United States. But I suppose my point is that the person you want to start having these difficult conversations about race with is probably not a radical right wing Nazi type of person, but rather your cousin who has grown up Republican and feels loyal to that and doesn’t see how being anti racist could fit his views, or your friend who has a police officer brother. These are people that you know, that you already have a relationship with and that you need to start engaging with. Be honest, show your anger and sadness, stress the urgency, but be ready and willing to engage for the long run because something that I have learned from living in a different culture in Comoros is that what is glaringly obvious to you isn’t always so obvious to others.

A United States that is across the board anti racist is a United States that will reach unprecedented heights. White people we have to be in this till the end, we have to stay focused on the facts and we need to stop belittling others with our words, especially those who are fighting for the same thing, just perhaps in a way not identical to ours. Belittling is not the same as speaking the truth. We need to keep speaking the truth.

Ngamwesheleyo hayina usiku

This title means “I am remembering every day.”

I have been back in the US for nearly 2 months now and it has not been easy at all; tsi nyangu hata, as a Comorian would say. Not only am I experiencing the continual loss and uncertainty that this pandemic has brought all of us, but I am still so frustrated about the suddenness of my departure from Comoros. While it was happening I used the 3 days I had between when I knew we were evacuating and our flight back to the US to create the greatest sense of closure that I could. I told myself that at least I got to go back to my village for two hours, at least my family was able to see me off at the airport, at least I had mabawa (chicken wings) and friyapa (breadfruit) as my last dinner; but when I think about it these “at leasts” come nowhere close to doing the nearly 2 years I spent in Comoros justice.

I have been struggling with how to best cope with the grief I feel because it cycles constantly between anger and sadness. I have been learning to sit in the anger and sadness, to hold it close, and to remind myself that I feel this pain because of how full and special and joyful my time in Comoros was. I have been trying to embrace remembering, no matter how painful that can be sometimes. And so in this blog post I am going to share some memories with you.

One of the most different things about Comoros from the US is that someone could walk into your house at any time. Houses often don’t have doors, or if they do they are never locked, so instead of knocking a guest would yell “Hodi!” to which the proper response is “Karibu!” – welcome!. Even 20 months into living in Comoros I would still feel the slight twinge of annoyance when this happened at 5:45AM or at 9:30PM, but now that I am back in the US, I really miss this laidback togetherness. It adds excitement to life; you never know who could be stopping by to say hi!

I miss basing everything around the Muslim prayer times. It was so easy to get into the rhythm of life, and everyone was in sync with each other. I would get a bus to Moroni pvo asubuhi (after the first morning prayer). We’d often take naps pvo adhuhuri (the noon prayer). We would start cooking or I would go to English club, walk around the village, go to sport club pvo lanswiri (the late afternoon prayer) because that was finally when the sun is less hot. It became officially nighttime pvo maharibi (around 6PM) and then it was time for students to go to various study groups. Pvo lensha, the last prayer (around 8pm), signified the end to the day. I miss all of the nights laying on the mattress in the main room with Mama Anrafa and my siblings, before my brush teeth/wash face bed time routine that ended with me touching each of their heads saying “masihu mema!” – good night!

In Comoros, if you are a guest in someone’s house you will almost always be offered food. I miss being extremely hungry in the afternoon, but knowing I could go to Mama Toiyib’s house or Mama Nadhir’s house and be offered anything ranging from taro root boiled in coconut milk with fish, to fried plantains, or roasted peanuts.

I miss walking on the main street of my village, never knowing who I might run into and greet or joke around with. Village life was so ideal for my extrovertedness because there was always someone to spontaneously see and chat with at any given time.

When I would go into Moroni to go shopping, I got really good at using the impossible money system and getting vendors to lower the price. I miss these solo shopping trips, feeling fully at home in the country, and then coming home telling my Mama and aunt how much I had gotten the prices of things reduced.

I miss my best friends a lot; Anrafa, Abou, Hamdi, Nadhir, Izdine, Charfia, Soilihu, Bencheikh, and Anzide. I miss my students that became like younger siblings; Nadhria, Soumaya, Zamouanti, Walladin, Thaoubane, Fakihi, Abdillah, and so many more. I miss my Mama and my aunt, and my siblings, especially my baby brother. I miss the teachers at my school, Djahi, Madame Abdicarima, Fundi Rafiou, Fundi Cheikh, and Mbaba Moindze. I miss my bus drivers that always gave me the front seat, Abdoufatahou, Pinduzi, and Gasparin. I miss my always encouraging language tutor, Mama Djibril. I miss my angel counterpart, Younoussa.

No matter when I would have left, Comoros and my village Ntsorale would have always held a huge place in my heart; but not having the chance to tell each and every one of the people close to me how much they impacted me, not being able to run my usual loop one more time reflecting on how incredible my life was, not being able to celebrate with my family and friends with a huge goodbye concert, not being able to prepare my heart for leaving the life I had thrived in and loved so much, is so so hard.

But, I do know with certain fact that the things I experienced and saw will always be with me, that the relationships I made are lifelong ones, and that one day I will go back to Ntsorale and we will celebrate more than we ever have. I cannot wait for that day.

Ngaridjo wonana inshallah

This title means “We will see each other God willing”. This is what I have told everyone in my village over the last week and I mean it with full conviction: I will be making a trip back to my home in Comoros.

A week from today I woke up to an email telling myself and all of my fellow volunteers that Peace Corps was being evacuated everywhere in the world, and now I am sitting in my hometown writing this final blog post.

I can’t describe how unsettling this past week has been or how I have managed to be relatively okay. One thing I know for sure now is that I can handle more than I ever thought I could handle. My village, Ntsorale, which many of you have seen and heard about on Facebook and Instagram has become my home in the truest since of that word. Just 2 weeks ago I had a whole routine and life there that I absolutely loved, and then with just 2 hours to say goodbye to it all, I had to leave. This has obviously been a lot to process, and I don’t want this post to be a pity party, but rather a tribute to one of the best places in the entire world.

Before writing this I reread my entire blog and I was touched to see how Ntsorale has clearly been such a supportive home for me from the very first day I arrived till now, with people repeatedly telling me on Facebook that they will never forget me. In one blog post I wrote a sentence along the lines of “My village has made me feel wanted” and I realized that Ntsorale has ALWAYS made me feel wanted; and also seen, loved and cared for.

As I am writing this a reel of memories is going through my mind: hanging out with my family in the evening on our roof that had views of the ocean and the entire northeast side of the island, as well as of Karthala the volcano, waking up at 4:30am as people prayed the asubuhi prayer and then waiting at the “propro” (benches) by 5:00am to catch a bus into Moroni, chatting with one of my favorite grandfathers before being given the front seat by one of my favorite bus drivers, Abdoufatah, Pinduzi, or Gasparin, walking to school in the morning usually being greeted by little Fatima, Irfan, and Irham plus their mothers as I walked by their house, arriving at my school probably profusely sweating even though it was only 7:00am but already SO hot and chatting with Mbaba Moindze, Fundi Rafiou, and my director; who became such a close confidant and support to me, leaving my house at the lanswiri prayer around 3:30pm and walking the 3 minute path to Mama Nadhir’s house in order to hang out in her kitchen and complain about my students or play with her kids or lay on the floor watching TV thanks to their solar panels, walking all the way to Ureleni the farthest neighborhood in my village to visit Younoussa’s wife or get some work done with him and then making my way slowly back home, first visiting people in Mdji Salama and then people in Garage, always feeling invigorated by the people that would happily greet me on the street along the way, going to the soccer field on Monday afternoons to play soccer with the 6eme boys and whoever else wanted to join and being brave enough to actually really get into it the last time I played with them, singing the random English nursery rhymes I remembered to my baby brother while walking through our house, getting him to fall asleep in my arms before laying him down in his crib, listening to Soilihu teach Anrafa and Anzide math while reading my Kindle every night, going to English Club on Sunday afternoons and having such a funny and productive time teaching students who actually cared about English, waking up at sunrise to go on a super hilly run sometimes with Izdine and most of the time alone, getting my hair braided once a week by Anrafa, buying knock off Fanta from my uncle’s shop, carrying buckets of water to the bathroom everyday, listening to podcasts while doing laundry on the roof, talking with Anrafa about anything and everything in the kitchen on a Saturday afternoon, lesson planning or working on other projects in my favorite breakfast place Nassib in Moroni, seeing all the people that I would see each and every day that all matter so much but would take 20 pages to list, ALL of this was my life that was so abruptly taken from me. This is the life that I want to still be living now. But even with that loss, of not living that life anymore, I am also so thankful that I have these memories of this life so clear in my mind and I hope I was able to paint at least a small picture for you all.

I will miss most the many exuberant greetings people use when they see a stranger or a friend on the street, the fact that it is acceptable to drop by a neighbor’s house anytime without previous plans, and how ready and willing people are to help each other; there is no shame in asking for help and if someone is able to, they will help you with whatever you need.

The memories listed above do not even begin to scratch the surface of the memories I have from my time in Comoros. I am so thankful that Ntsorale has had such a huge impact on me and that in some small ways I think I have left an impact on Ntsorale. I can still remember seeing Ntsorale for the first time and the feeling of “wow this is really my home”, a feeling that has only become more true over time. When I was in Comoros I felt like I was living the life that I truly wanted to be living, and from this point forward my goal is to channel that and attain that once again.

Feeling a love so incredibly deep for the Islands of the Moon, especially Ngazidja, and especially Ntsorale Dimani.

 

Ngasina haki

This title means  “we have the right”. Something I screamed more times than I’d like to have today.

Right now I am asking myself the question: “Why have men always found themselves better/more deserving/wiser/more powerful than women?”

It goes without saying that I don’t mean all men, I know many great men that do not think those things, but we can’t ignore the fact that we live in a highly patriarchal world where men have significantly more power and rights than women in essentially every single country on earth.

I’m asking this question now because in the past two weeks I have witnessed sexism firsthand in a way I never have before throughout my highly privileged life.

I play soccer with my 6eme and 5eme (6th & 7th grade) girls every Tuesday afternoon. This has been our schedule since school started in September this year. The last two weeks groups of boys/men have started coming claiming that we need to leave the field because it’s their time to play. There are several issues with this. 1) When us girls play we only use a 1/4 of the field leaving the rest of the field for whoever else wants to play. 2) Boys are able to play soccer basically any second that they’d like to, whether that be on the street, in public places, or at the soccer field. 3) Girls have every right to also use the field to play soccer and they only have one day, one hour a week to do so.

Today I stood in the middle of the field while my girls continued to play soccer as the boys completely ignored everything I said when I asked them to please let us use our small portion of the field for one hour today. At one point the boys even tried to take our soccer ball away from us, keeping us from playing at all. I cannot explain the anger I felt when every single boy (aside for 3 of them, who deserve to be mentioned and were able to see that it was wrong) completely ignored the fact that I had told them not to take our part of the field and that they could not care less that my girls were clearly playing there. My girls were so awesome; they didn’t leave the field or stop playing even when the boys were playing right on top of them.

This anger then spiraled into the realization that this kind of blatant sexism ubiquitously exists in places beyond the soccer field; but even on the soccer field in the United States of America the Women’s National Team, after winning the World Cup, was paid a FRACTION of what the men’s team was paid. And this is in the US!!!!

So I return to my question why? Why does this happen? In writing this, I’m hoping to simultaneously vent some of the anger I am feeling and then also remind each of us that there is a heck of a long way to go in this world before women, without which there would literally be no human population, are treated for what they are worth.

 

 

 

Narisome Shingazidja!

Let’s learn Shingazidja!

I’ve entitled all of my blog posts to this point in Shingazidja, as a way to share just a little bit more about this culture to anyone who reads. Recently I’ve been thinking a lot more about language, especially since I’ve lived here for a year and have a much better grasp on the language than when I first started.

Our world is vast and there are many things that contribute to us feeling separate or different from others. I think language is a huge one. If you can’t understand what another person is saying it’s easy to think they aren’t as smart as you or they don’t have as much depth of feeling. Especially being English speakers, where there are literally hundreds of ways to express the same thought, it can be easy to assume other languages,  and thus people, don’t have the same capacity.

I’ve talked about this in a previous post, but my time in Comoros has shown me that all human beings are really the same. And this is reinforced as I learn more and more Shingazidja. For every thought or feeling I might have in English, there is a way to express it in Shingazidja; proof that people have been having the same types of thoughts, feelings, and experiences all over the world for a very very long time. I want to share some examples of these language similarities here.

One that makes me laugh is that if you say something absurd someone might respond “lala ounono”. That literally means “sleep well” but is also used to mean “goodbye”. In English if someone says something absurd we also sometimes say “ok see ya” aka the same exact thing.

I just learned how to say “whether you like it or not”: “Rahandza hawu radjandza” – which is something I’m going to use on my students this upcoming school year for sure.

There’s a slang term for if someone has a big booty: “jwui”. Which is also the word for juice.

If you’re exhausted and don’t feel like doing anything but still have a lot of work that you’re going to do you say “ngam sano”.

The word “fidjo” means “chaos” but it can also mean any type of crowd or excitement or even traffic.

Over the past year it has been reinforced to me that it is of utmost importance to learn a foreign language. The United States is one of the only countries that doesn’t place a high significance on learning languages, and that’s because we are blessed to speak the international language of English. But imagine how much more connected we’d be, how less apt we’d be to assume we know best, if we could actually understand what other people are saying.

Ri shinde!!!

This title means “We won!!!”.

Yesterday, as I’m sure many of you know, the US Women’s National Team won the World Cup!!! I personally am not a huge soccer fan, but if it involves women and the US that changes things.

I was worried I wouldn’t be able to watch the match because my village hasn’t had electricity in months. I did know that sometimes men watch soccer matches in the big public place across the street from my house and contribute to the cost of gas to run a generator, but I thought this was a “men only” thing and didn’t have high hopes that they’d be interested in watching the Women’s World Cup. I turned out to be very wrong about this, which was amazing.

I told my friend Fayar that I wanted to watch the game and he got in touch with the guy aka the projector and cable owner who runs the public viewings. He immediately was excited about the match and started planning and inviting people, men and women, to watch! This involved tacking up a wooden sign announcing the game, which led to everyone I saw yesterday telling me “Danielle we are so excited for the match!!!”

My sisters and I made 60 paper American flags to pass out to people at the game. When we arrived at the public place we started handing them out and people were SO excited about this! We soon ran out of flags which means I think there was close to 80 people in attendance. Watching the game with that many people was so fun. We all cheered for Megan Rapinoe aka “Captain” together and when she scored that first penalty kick all the kids got up and ran around the room and in front of the screen. At the end of the game when we won we started a USA!!! chant and everyone congratulated me.

This was such a special experience and will probably stick out in my memory of the Peace Corps for many years to come. My village has become my home and the people have become my family and closest friends. To sit in a room with all of them cheering for the American women made me feel like my two worlds were connected in a very real way. I love being American, I am so proud to be an American woman just like the strong and incredible women on our national team, and I love that my village has accepted and embraced me for that identity. Last night a small Comorian village cheered for the USWNT like it was their own team. This is proof the world really isn’t all that big.

Tsi timizi mwaha!

This means I finished a year!

June 6th marked my first full year in Comoros which is a huge landmark for many reasons, but mostly I just can’t believe how much time has already passed! I am going to write this post in 2 parts: the first being a snapshot on a typical day in my life and the second being the top 3 things I’ve learned over this past year.

A Typical Friday in Danielle’s Comorian Life

5:30AM: Alarm goes off and I most likely snooze it once if not twice, especially this time of year because the sun doesn’t rise until 6:15ish.

6:30AM: Go on a run along my favorite route which involves running through 3 other villages and one very steep hill.

7:30AM: Bucket shower, which during hot season was lovely, but now during the cooler season is a little rough in the mornings. Eat a breakfast of peanut butter (thank you Carol King) and some type of biscuit or bread and coffee – usually lukewarm because we haven’t had consistent electricity in months so I can’t use my electric hot water boiler and instead boil water every few days and store it in a thermos.

8:00AM: Head to school. I get there early so I can greet some of my favorite teachers in the teacher lounge which is actually just some cinder blocks and a hammock bed thing arranged in a square.

8:20AM: Teach the 4eme girls, which is equivalent to 8th grade.

9:15AM: Teach the 5eme boys, which is equivalent to 7th grade. Because this class is small (and also my favorites) I usually play music (aka lots of Rihanna and a French rapper you should check out named Soprano) for them from my phone.

11:00AM: Head home. Greet my family; usually my aunt and Mama are sitting outside my uncle’s shop that’s located in the front room of our house. They’ll usually immediately tell me to go rest because they understand how absolutely taxing teaching can be. I rest and change and make sure my water filter has been filled up with water from our well. Then I usually sit and hang out with whoever’s around the house.

3:00PM: This is when it’s less sunny and people finally approve of me walking around because they’re no longer worried that my skin is going to burn off. One of my favorite people to visit is Mama Toiyb and her family. I usually stop by their house and hang out and inevitably they give me too much food to eat.

4:00PM: English Club for beginner students. This is when I teach the absolute cutest little kids English for an hour. There’s lots of singing and repetition and I always have moments where I can’t believe this is my life during this English Club.

5:30PM: Hang out in the kitchen “helping” with dinner prep. Really I just hang out on the roof with my friend Anzide or Soilihu and chat about the day until it gets dark and we head downstairs to continue the hanging out inside.

7:00PM: Eat dinner by iPhone flashlight on my bedroom floor.

7:30PM: Maybe watch a movie with my family on my laptop if I’m feeling generous with my battery life or if not, sit outside the shop out front and chat with neighbors until I absolutely cannot stay up anymore even though my whole family hates that I go to bed so early.

8:30PM: Listen to one of my favorite podcasts (shout out to My Favorite Murder, If I Were You, Why Won’t You Date Me, and Conan O’Brien Needs a Friend) and pass out almost immediately.

The Top 3 Things Danielle Has Learned From 6/6/18-6/6/19

  1. All humans are the same; and the differences we do have are the differences all people have (I like salty food, you like sweet etc.).
  2. I am brave.
  3. Being incredibly intentional in taking care of oneself mentally, emotionally, and spiritually is absolutely key to getting through both the good and the challenging aspects of life.

If you read this far, thank you for reading! Here’s to another year of living the life I’ve always wanted to, and I’m completely serious when I say it’s you people who love me back home that help me feel confident enough to be myself day in and day out here.